oil change...just did it...car's

using one of these



1. unscrew cap on engine (to air it during drainage)
2. pull dip stick off the engine
3. insert hose into dip stick hole
4. pump
5. when all oil is out, remove oil filter from engine and replace.
6. pour new oil into engine
7. remove spent oil into now-empty container where new oil came in.
8. take spent oil to recycling/station
9. done

years ago as a yute, I took pleasure in doing my car's own engine oil/filter changes...then they lowered prices for Synthetic oil changes too...so I stopped doing it.

Here they want 150USD to change the oil and that's not including the oil! bastards, so I got this pump in the States. I wish I had an electric one...lazy ass, but electric ones havent been seen with a holding tank on them or the hoses are too thick at the far end.

anyone here using this method too? so easy.
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I take mine to Belle Tire every 5000 miles. Much easier.

Originally posted by: DirtyMitten
I take mine to Belle Tire every 5000 miles. Much easier.

agreed, much easier. I bet no one in the States changes their car's engine oil/filter themselves anymore.
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Originally posted by: Aria Giovanni.pZ

Originally posted by: DirtyMitten
I take mine to Belle Tire every 5000 miles. Much easier.

agreed, much easier. I bet no one in the States changes their car's engine oil/filter themselves anymore.

Heh, work pays for all of my oil changes & car maintenance. There is no reason for me to do it anymore

yeah i get free oil changes so theres no point

but i do add my own windshield fluid to the reservoir sometimes

that thing is way bigger than you'd think

---

I do it myself. So easy even a woman can do it.

fkin rich people that dont pay shit, I need a handout too!!!!

Our cars have NEVER been in a shop (at least while we own them).

Kind Regards,

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Need a new signature?

(V) ( ಠ,,,,ಠ ) (V)

Why not Zoidberg??

Originally posted by: DirtyMitten
I take mine to Belle Tire every 5000 miles. Much easier.

their tv ads are annoying (mostly because of the tire).
_______________________

Originally posted by: the wierdo
There's nothing like a little child molestation to bring people together and rise above the partisanship

Originally posted by: Pudd¿nheäd
ive been wanting coq for some time now, and im goin for it on sunday!

Originally posted by: Aria Giovanni.pZ
kok. i want kok. lots of kok.

There's a few pitfalls with this depending on the oil pan design.

Some pans, the low spot isn't anywhere near where the dipstick bottoms.

And if you don't get it all, you have a chance of leaving some of the worst of the worst debris in the bottom of the pan.

always change my own, takes 5 minutes and I know its done right

Originally posted by: Stryk
There's a few pitfalls with this depending on the oil pan design.

Some pans, the low spot isn't anywhere near where the dipstick bottoms.

..

Stryk's a stubby.

My old 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee is kind of my "beater" car. Daily driver, has 140,000 miles on it, saw all kinds of rough mountain driving when I was a Realtor in Colorado, and it gets no love at all. Gets washed like once a year.

But it's also been one of the most maintenance-free vehicles I've owned. I love Jeeps, they can take a beating and keep going.

I run only full synthetic in it, and usually go 10,000 miles between oil changes. I don't believe this 3,000 mile bullshit they still try to push on you even when using full synthetic. I've gone 10k miles on synthetic as long as I can remember, and never had any problems.

Well, this last time the service reminder went off in the Jeep, I clicked it off thinking I'd do it that afternoon. But I forgot until just yesterday. Turns out I'd gone 14k miles since the last one. Shit. Plus, when I took it in, they told me they didn't see any oil registering on the dipstick. Double shit. Thought I'd fucked up my Jeep for sure.

But then they told me aside from the dirty air filter, everything looked fine. The old oil wasn't sludge, looked dirty like normal, and the oil filter wasn't caked up or anything. So it's good to go for another 10k miles.

Long live Jeeps!

Recently - I've been using coupons that come in the "Penny Saver" for my oil changes - runs me about $15 total, which is usually what I pay for good oil and a filter. I know I get cheap oil when I take it to get it done, but its a matter of having the time/motivation to change my own oil.

Damn! That thing runs for like... $60/bucks.

http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/tools-repair-kits-fixings/Pela/oil-extractor-pump1004535.bhtml

Originally posted by: Neechoo Cheeska
My old 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee is kind of my "beater" car. Daily driver, has 140,000 miles on it, saw all kinds of rough mountain driving when I was a Realtor in Colorado, and it gets no love at all. Gets washed like once a year.

But it's also been one of the most maintenance-free vehicles I've owned. I love Jeeps, they can take a beating and keep going.

I run only full synthetic in it, and usually go 10,000 miles between oil changes. I don't believe this 3,000 mile bullshit they still try to push on you even when using full synthetic. I've gone 10k miles on synthetic as long as I can remember, and never had any problems.

Well, this last time the service reminder went off in the Jeep, I clicked it off thinking I'd do it that afternoon. But I forgot until just yesterday. Turns out I'd gone 14k miles since the last one. Shit. Plus, when I took it in, they told me they didn't see any oil registering on the dipstick. Double shit. Thought I'd fucked up my Jeep for sure.

But then they told me aside from the dirty air filter, everything looked fine. The old oil wasn't sludge, looked dirty like normal, and the oil filter wasn't caked up or anything. So it's good to go for another 10k miles.

Long live Jeeps!

Originally posted by: Neechoo Cheeska
Show me a picture of me caring about any of this.

My brother had a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee that completely died after 7 years and 150K miles... Literally.. it needed a new engine, transmission was rebuilt, fucking needed to pump the pedal to start the thing... and it was fuel injected... go figure!

It wasn't as crazy bad as my old 1986 Ford Bronco II... when that thing died @ 120K miles... but it was pretty disappointing.

Originally posted by: Stryk
There's a few pitfalls with this depending on the oil pan design.

Some pans, the low spot isn't anywhere near where the dipstick bottoms.

And if you don't get it all, you have a chance of leaving some of the worst of the worst debris in the bottom of the pan.

Why don't unmount the bolt and put a bucket underneath it?
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Originally posted by: Cummins
I woke up at like 8 am, woke her up and she told me she needed to be honest. She said I fucked both your friends last night. I dont know why I did it. I punched a hole in the wall because I realized how stupid I was. Then I looked outside no sign of any rain.

If you bring your vehicle to an oil change specific business(Rapid Oil Change/Valoline/Midas/Meinke to name a few), demand that you get a quality filter. There is a reason they can offer a $16.99 oil change, they use shitty filters and a lower grade oil. The oil isn't so much the issue as long as it is rated for your vehicle(every oil has a two letter rating and is listed in aphabetical superseceding order, ex: SJ is higher grade than SE, etc).

Just an FYI, Fram is a low quality filter and probably one of the worst on the market(unless you get a "Tough Guard" which is built like they used to make them 15-20 years ago).

A lot of filter companies use names that are familiar to the consumer but aren't with a darn. Some of them include STP, O'Reilly's private label, etc. If it is a private label and isn't made by Wix or Purolator, it's probably an inferior quality product.

Wix (Napa Gold, Carquest Blue) is rated for 10K of use, I don't know if Purolator, Baldwin or other quality filter manufacturers put a mileage rating on it or not but Wix does. I also know Amsoil synthetic has two grades of synthetic oil, 7.5K and 25K miles ratings. Mobile does not put a rating on their oil. As Neecho said, you can go 10K and change the filter, then top off what was lost during the filter change and your good to go for another 10k(if you use a Wix and 25k mile Amsoil). You could probably do this with other quality synthetics like Royal Purple, Redline, etc. but I'd check with them first to make sure their oil is high enough quality to go have a change interval like that.

You can not do this with conventional oil, or at least I wouldn't recommend it. Especially if you have a VCT engine(Variable Cam Timing engine). These engines cam timing devices run off of the oil in the engine. If you do have one of these, demand quality oil and a quality filter. If you don't you could have driveability issues down the road.

that is so true, I only use, to this day, Mobil 1 filters...I bought a shit ton of them at wholesale prices.

They use Fram filters on NHRA Top Fuel Dragsters, BIOTCH!

Originally posted by: Cocytus
They use Fram filters on NHRA Top Fuel Dragsters, BIOTCH!

1. They are a major sponsor.
2. They break down an engine after EVERY pass.
3. They don't care about filteration per se on 7000HP engine, they just want to keep out the nuts and bolts that might break during the run out of the engine.
4. Don't be a tard.

Originally posted by: =>PX<=Major

Originally posted by: Cocytus
They use Fram filters on NHRA Top Fuel Dragsters, BIOTCH!

1. They are a major sponsor.
2. They break down an engine after EVERY pass.
3. They don't care about filteration per se on 7000HP engine, they just want to keep out the nuts and bolts that might break during the run out of the engine.
4. Don't be a tard.

Yea, well I break down my engine after every pass to the market!

Originally posted by: -Napir^

Originally posted by: Stryk
There's a few pitfalls with this depending on the oil pan design.

Some pans, the low spot isn't anywhere near where the dipstick bottoms.

And if you don't get it all, you have a chance of leaving some of the worst of the worst debris in the bottom of the pan.

Why don't unmount the bolt and put a bucket underneath it?

he was talking about my method, extracting the oil through the dip stick tube using a pump.

on the surface, it looks like he might have a point, I thought of this before I ever did it this way in the first place....

this is why I extract all first, then remove oil filter...the car has already been positioned at a slight incline favoring the filter (parking structure is @ an incline).

Before I proceed to refill, I check with the dip stick...if the dipstick says "empty" for me, it would for anyone else using the regular method, no? that's why there is a dipstick there in the first place!
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Originally posted by: Aria Giovanni.pZ

Originally posted by: -Napir^

Originally posted by: Stryk
There's a few pitfalls with this depending on the oil pan design.

Some pans, the low spot isn't anywhere near where the dipstick bottoms.

And if you don't get it all, you have a chance of leaving some of the worst of the worst debris in the bottom of the pan.

Why don't unmount the bolt and put a bucket underneath it?

he was talking about my method, extracting the oil through the dip stick tube using a pump.

on the surface, it looks like he might have a point, I thought of this before I ever did it this way in the first place....

this is why I extract all first, then remove oil filter...the car has already been positioned at a slight incline favoring the filter (parking structure is @ an incline).

Before I proceed to refill, I check with the dip stick...if the dipstick says "empty" for me, it would for anyone else using the regular method, no? that's why there is a dipstick there in the first place!

A dipstick might indicate 'empty', but the majority I see these days tell you if its 'full' or if you 'need more'. 'Need more' could be anything from a couple quarts less than full and empty.

You'd probably be ok if you do every 3rd or 4th oil change the hard (or expensive) way.

Many of the cars I've worked on can have a quart or TWO of oil in them and register "empty" on the dipstick due to the oil pan design mentioned earlier.

Synthetic oil changes with filter can be done 7-10k miles depending on driving habits (I wouldn't wait 10,000 miles on a highperformance sport car or a HD Truck that tows equipment, but daily commuting? Sure.

edit: Also, if you truly want to replace all the oil in your system, you need to flush the motor a bit. On the one car I owned that I actually care about, I'd buy 3 qts of the cheap shit, drain the old, fill the cheap, run it for a couple minutes, drain it again, add synthetic.

The first time you do it, you'll know if you need to do it next time or not, I remember the "flush" oil coming out noticeably dirtier then it went in only a matter of minutes later.


Also if your car doesn't already have one, replace your oil pan drain plug with one that has a magnetic tip. This little (probably under a buck or two) mod can save an engine.
Post edited by EclipseSix at 10/3/2011 8:32:54 PM

My '01 Wrangler gets the ultimate treatment. I baby the shit out of it. I get the oil change every 3,000 miles (it has 91k+ on it).


But sadly someone ran in to my Jeep and it's in the shop now. :{

And then I need to bring it to another garage to get it's 90k check up.


Still runs strong though.

_________________________________

Oil is turned black for a couple of reasons, from sludge build up and carbon deposits to heat changing the color(not to black but darker). If you put a high quality oil (just about any synthetic, Valvoline, etc) your first couple oil changes will most definitely be black as the ace of spades. The detergents in these high quality oils clean so well, it's inevitable they will turn black from the cleaning they do.

When you use a quality filter and oil, the oil will retain most of it's translucent quality(unless you have bad rings or valve guides).

Originally posted by: Stryk

Originally posted by: Aria Giovanni.pZ

Originally posted by: -Napir^

Originally posted by: Stryk
There's a few pitfalls with this depending on the oil pan design.

Some pans, the low spot isn't anywhere near where the dipstick bottoms.

And if you don't get it all, you have a chance of leaving some of the worst of the worst debris in the bottom of the pan.

Why don't unmount the bolt and put a bucket underneath it?

he was talking about my method, extracting the oil through the dip stick tube using a pump.

on the surface, it looks like he might have a point, I thought of this before I ever did it this way in the first place....

this is why I extract all first, then remove oil filter...the car has already been positioned at a slight incline favoring the filter (parking structure is @ an incline).

Before I proceed to refill, I check with the dip stick...if the dipstick says "empty" for me, it would for anyone else using the regular method, no? that's why there is a dipstick there in the first place!

A dipstick might indicate 'empty', but the majority I see these days tell you if its 'full' or if you 'need more'. 'Need more' could be anything from a couple quarts less than full and empty.

You'd probably be ok if you do every 3rd or 4th oil change the hard (or expensive) way.

thank you Stryk, I have been doing it for years this way, car has 9 yrs, 140,000 miles (not many considering age and where it has been).

Originally posted by: Aria Giovanni.pZ

Originally posted by: -Napir^

Originally posted by: Stryk
There's a few pitfalls with this depending on the oil pan design.

Some pans, the low spot isn't anywhere near where the dipstick bottoms.

And if you don't get it all, you have a chance of leaving some of the worst of the worst debris in the bottom of the pan.

Why don't unmount the bolt and put a bucket underneath it?

he was talking about my method, extracting the oil through the dip stick tube using a pump.

on the surface, it looks like he might have a point, I thought of this before I ever did it this way in the first place....

this is why I extract all first, then remove oil filter...the car has already been positioned at a slight incline favoring the filter (parking structure is @ an incline).

Before I proceed to refill, I check with the dip stick...if the dipstick says "empty" for me, it would for anyone else using the regular method, no? that's why there is a dipstick there in the first place!

Dipstick might not tell you all the oil has been drained, my old jeep would take a gallon before registering oil at the tip of the stick, let alone reaching the 'low' mark. You should have just about as much oil as possible out before adding more so you don't over-fill.

I suggest starting the engine and revving it just to be sure

Originally posted by: Water Demon
My '01 Wrangler gets the ultimate treatment. I baby the shit out of it. I get the oil change every 3,000 miles (it has 91k+ on it).


But sadly someone ran in to my Jeep and it's in the shop now. :{

And then I need to bring it to another garage to get it's 90k check up.


Still runs strong though.

If it was a front/rear end, be sure you check up on your U-joints, any misalignment will first fuck your U-joints, then will fuck your drive shaft. You don't want to be stuck in the middle of an intersection with a broken drive shaft!

You should be able to feel any play in the U joints just by manipulating the drive shaft back and forth, front and back, and feeling any loose wiggle room in the bearings. If the bearings are beginning to go you'll get a good bit of play.

Just something to look out for, I got rear ended with no consequence in my cherokee a while ago, only to have a drive shaft and U joint failure one after the other.

Originally posted by: Coba|t

Originally posted by: Aria Giovanni.pZ

Originally posted by: -Napir^

Originally posted by: Stryk
There's a few pitfalls with this depending on the oil pan design.

Some pans, the low spot isn't anywhere near where the dipstick bottoms.

And if you don't get it all, you have a chance of leaving some of the worst of the worst debris in the bottom of the pan.

Why don't unmount the bolt and put a bucket underneath it?

he was talking about my method, extracting the oil through the dip stick tube using a pump.

on the surface, it looks like he might have a point, I thought of this before I ever did it this way in the first place....

this is why I extract all first, then remove oil filter...the car has already been positioned at a slight incline favoring the filter (parking structure is @ an incline).

Before I proceed to refill, I check with the dip stick...if the dipstick says "empty" for me, it would for anyone else using the regular method, no? that's why there is a dipstick there in the first place!

Dipstick might not tell you all the oil has been drained, my old jeep would take a gallon before registering oil at the tip of the stick, let alone reaching the 'low' mark. You should have just about as much oil as possible out before adding more so you don't over-fill.

I suggest starting the engine and revving it just to be sure

tru dat.

i do have to incline my car in order to get it all out. Also, the hose...I push it in good, it's the only thing I do well.

I must have missed it, but why won't you just drain the oil by unscrewing the plug? Was it stripped?

Originally posted by: Coba|t
I must have missed it, but why won't you just drain the oil by unscrewing the plug? Was it stripped?

Because hes a goddamn european now, always trying to be different.

Originally posted by: EclipseSix

Originally posted by: Coba|t
I must have missed it, but why won't you just drain the oil by unscrewing the plug? Was it stripped?

Because hes a goddamn european now, always trying to be different.

these motherfuckers wanted $180 dollars for a goddamned oil change! fuck them, it takes me half hour and I do it RIGHT.

also, we have been living in a high rise (will change by Nov1st, though) and the community rules prevent me from doing work on my car in the garage. I have my 2 ton jack and the wheeled plank to go under the car...I brought them from the States cuz historically, I have liked to do as much of the car work as possible/practical/enjoyable.

so, with the pump method, the local retards have no clue what I am doing, they are happy I am NOT jacking the car up on the towers I also have, and be all spread out with tools and shit.

What's funny is that...the Honda Odyssey...you know how you get to the oil filter?

1. turn the wheel to the right, all the way
2. go to the front right tire well,
3. reach in for it and turn



I have changed the oil AND filter while waiting for my wife at the mall one time, shhh...total redneck!
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Originally posted by: Aria Giovanni.pZ
using one of these



1. unscrew cap on engine (to air it during drainage)
2. pull dip stick off the engine
3. insert hose into dip stick hole
4. pump
5. when all oil is out, remove oil filter from engine and replace.
6. pour new oil into engine
7. remove spent oil into now-empty container where new oil came in.
8. take spent oil to recycling/station
9. done

years ago as a yute, I took pleasure in doing my car's own engine oil/filter changes...then they lowered prices for Synthetic oil changes too...so I stopped doing it.

Here they want 150USD to change the oil and that's not including the oil! bastards, so I got this pump in the States. I wish I had an electric one...lazy ass, but electric ones havent been seen with a holding tank on them or the hoses are too thick at the far end.

anyone here using this method too? so easy.

This is how you change the oil in your boat engine

yup! that's where I got the idea from, fantastic!